Getting nowhere very slowly with the shim stock cleaning tool, I picked up a 0.004″ slitting saw to try to get the crud out from underneath the drive wheels of the model material feed block.
This was all I could think of, and I’ll probably slice my fingers up more than get crud removed. If this doesn’t help I’ll have to figure out how to press the shafts out to get things cleaned out and free running again.
I got some RS232 breakout blocks so I’ll be able to test the filament drive motors while in the machine & running. Today I’m just going to quickly test the setup & get a no-load torque reading as I have no idea of the pinout for the DB9 connector. The bech setup looked pretty good:
But, when I got it in the machine & the head connectors connected it was pretty cramped:
I fired up the machine, and let it warm a bit. I hit the ‘load’ button and the model motored turned slowly:
The first torque readings were 80 to 95. I stopped the load, waited a minute, and started the load again. The torque readings this time were 70 to 76.
I switched to the support. This motor seemed to be turning at the same RPM (where did I put the old drill press RPM gage?):
The first torque readings were 7 to 16. Again I stopped for a minute and restarted. The torque readings were 14 to 16.
It does look like the model side motor has a problem, but I’m not sure that it is the whole problem.
I sure wish I knew the DB9 pinout for these motors, or had one to tear apart…
The motors in both the model & support feed blocks are both MiniMotor SA 2233U012S 123. There’s also a 486 on the support vrs 466 on the model. Both are geared 23/1 43:1. Both are also labeled with a Micro MO Electronic, Inc tag. I’m guessing that Micro MO integrated the MiniMotors with the 6 conductor ribbon cable & the DB9 male connector. I’m guessing there’s no encoder with just 6 wires — I need to ohm-out the DB9 connection too.
With the motors off the feed blocks (by removing the three slotted flat head screws), I should be able to plug them into the empty FDM head, and power up in the machine using the ‘Load’ function to see the no-load torque of each motor.
I’ll do that some other day, as today I’d like to check the clearance of the feed rolls to the feed block. On the support block (the block that turns pretty free), the smallest feeler gage I have is 0.010″ and it starts to ‘go':
I found a piece of 0.004″ shim stock, and that seems to ‘go’ completely to the shaft:
On the model block (the block that is almost frozen), the smallest feeler gage I have is 0.010″ and it starts to ‘go’ just like the support block:
But the 0.004″ shim stock doesn’t get to the shaft:
In this picture it looks like it’s going, but it is due to parallax — it wasn’t even halfway. I’m going to scrape all that crud out and see if it frees that block up some.
‘Torque Limit Errors’ have both the 1650 and 2000 offline, and as the 2000 has a few other things :::: the 1650 seems the place to start.
The heads that I have for my machines are:
FDM2000 — Soluble Support (stripped model tip thread), ABS (Torque Limit Errors), & ICW
FDM1650 — ABS (Torque Limit Errors)
With all this stuff you would think there would be a combination that would work.
Although the heads look the same, they are not. The electrical connectors are different 1650/2000. The dowel pin spacing/pattern is different between the 1650/2000 feed blocks:
In addition the number/material (and probably size) of the feed rolls is different (one pair/two pair), motor size/gearing, the notch in the base plate for the protruding gear different too… arguhhh…
The FDM1650 ABS head model side seems almost siezed compared to the support side, and that seems to be the cause of the Torque Limit Errors. The motor seemed also ‘stiffer‘ that the support side motor.
When I removed the blocks, the model side had a coating of black grease, like lithium grease, but the support side had a white grease, like Krytox. Perhaps the last person to redo the model feed block didn’t want to spend the big bucks on the good high temperature grease?
Also, the feed rollers on the model side appear to be in direct contact with the block, where on the model side there seems to be some clearance (where did I put the feeler gages?).
Everything seems to be pressed fitted together, except for the pin holding the motor gear and the three screws attaching the motor to the block.
So, over the next couple of weeks I hope to be figuring this out (after I find the small bench press) and I’ll try to take pictures and get into the blog ….
Anyone who’s done this before, I love some comment pointers from you.
There was a Stratasys 768 listed on eBay recently with a ‘Buy-it-now’ price of $1,425, and it also had an ‘Offer’ button — It was only a few miles away so I was watching it. A couple of hours before the end it was still there, and I checked the sellers other items/feedback and I noticed he had been taking a lot of offers. I decided to offer $425. Next thing I new he snapped it up.
When I got there I found it pretty well gutted, and when I got the covers off it was pretty much a XY table and hopefully a heated chamber….
HaveBlue had emailed me with a tidbit of information — he had shown one of the bases from his 1600 to someone who thought the foam looked a lot like ‘Balsa Foam’. I emailed the mfg and found out there’s a $300 minimum order on some 10x10x1.5 chunks, a bit to much to spend when I’m not sure the stuff would work.
One day while surfing eBay, I searched for ‘Balsa Foam’ and found an Arts Place that had 10# 9x12x1 for under $20 — so I ordered two thinking I’ll piece & epoxy up a 10x10x2 out of two 9x12x1 sheets. Here’s what the raw stuff looks like:
And a closeup showing fine cell structure, but a few bubbles:
The color of the foam is a bit darker than Stratasys Foam, and the 10# material has a finer cell structure. This seems very close and I’m anzious to give it a try.
Well it looks like there’s overs a years worth of posts have gone missing from these pages — I wonder what might have happened, and how much has gone missing. I guess I need to start some sort of backup process to the database — another thing to figure out.
But anyway, I had the opportunity to run a 768 SST a week back, and I found a cute Nautilus Gear Set on Thingyverse. I sliced it up in Catalyst, and was pretty small so I added extra set, scaled 1.5x, and sent it to the printer.
The support head seems to be leaking a bit in the machine, so the support didn’t break cleanly from the parts. The two cross arms warped (lifted), but I was able to get together. I need to figure out how to increase the support overhang in Catalyst.